Miliwe

I saw the small child running to me out of the corner of my eye as I was waiting for the bus. He stopped a few feet away from me put out his hand an in a whiny voice began to speak to me. There is no language barrier when begging, it's very clear. I turned to him and lifted my sunglasses so he could see my eyes. Smiled and said, in my best Kirundi, "Miliwe". I stretched out my hand to shake his. His faced changed to a smile. He stretched out his right hand for mine and with his left, in good Burundian fashion, grabbed his right forearm as a sign of respect. I bent down and asked him how he was, but he didn't respond. I think it was too much for him that I was speaking Kirundi to him. I stood up and he ran off.
Silver and gold have I none, but such as I have I give to you...miliwe.
It's amazing how a simple miliwe will brighten up a face. On my way out of campus I meet all sorts of people some sitting under a tree, others leaning against a wall, some on their way somewhere but most enjoying themselves. When they see me walking their curiosity gets the best of them and they begin to stare. I meet their gaze, smile and say, "miliwe". There are a few different responses I get from this. There is the pause and after I pass them they burst out in laughter and say, "that mzungu just spoke in Kirundi". I think that is one of my favorites, I probably should be afended by that but, I'm not. There is the response from those that seem to assume that everyone knows kirundi. They say miliwe in response and keep on going. My ultimate favorite is when they say miliwe back and then ask me how I am. I then respond and their smile widens. There was the teenage boy that passed me the other day that was looking quite stoic. I said miliwe to him and he just kept walking. He was looking at me but not a muscle on his face moved. This is a rare response.
My favorite was the old woman begging at the post office today. I walked by her. Her hand was outstretched and she began to beg. I looked at her and smiled and said, "miliwe" Her worried forehead lightened and a smile lit up her face. She put her hand down and said, "miliwe neza" (afternoon, good). That was enough for her.